Home/Science & Technology/Zoology

Question/Subject:

Ball Python ultimateiq asked this question on 5/27/2002: I am "babysitting" my friend's Ball python. Is there any information you can give me?

beainsc gave this response on 5/27/2002: Ball Python (Python regius) translates to King/Royal python. CHARACTERISTICS: Generally docile and good natured. When threatened it may roll into a ball and hide its head. Popular due to the low price, small size and typically pleasant disposition. In parts of Africa this snake is worshipped and considered sacred. REQUIREMENTS: Tropical temperatures of 80-92F. Enclosure at least as long as the animal's body and width at least a third of the animal's length. Buy captive-born whenever possible. Ensure the animal is feeding. DIET: Mice, rats, gerbils, and in the wild, jerboas. SIZE & LIFE SPAN: Lengths of 4-6', a 5' animal is considered large. Ages of 25+ years in captivity. DIFFICULTY RATING: Easy, but keeper must have a general knowledge of snakes. BREEDING: Sexual maturity reached in the first 1-4 years. Breeding season in captivity: November-April. Animals should have excellent weight and be established before any breeding is attempted. Breeding induced by night time temperature drops into the low 70's. Misting the animals with water may be beneficial. Animals breed during the rainy season in the wild. Lay 4-8 eggs, maternally incubates. Incubation temperature 88-90F(optimal), 70-85 days to hatch. Infrequently bred in captivity. MORPHS: Normal, Piebald, Albino, Caramel Albino, Desert Ghost, Pastel Jungle, Lemon Pastel Jungle, Super Pastel Jungle, Woma, Hyper Melanistic, IMG, Jungle, Black, Anerthrystic, Genetic Striped, Ghost, Axthantic, Clown, Xanthic and many more! STATUS IN THE WILD: Large populations exist, but are being reduced due to excessive habitat destruction, skin trade and the pet trade. In some collected areas the population remain stable due to agricultural activities and the created artificial rat populations. DISTRIBUTION: Central and Western Africa. SETUP Caging: Includes Neodesha reptile cages, aquariums, sweater boxes and custom built vivariums. Cages must be escape proof, easy to disinfect, free of sharp edges, ventilated, and hold heat to ensure proper temperatures. Avoid unfinished wood and porous surfaces when designing custom cages; these surfaces are difficult to clean and disinfect. Heating: Variable under cage heating pads, thermostatically controlled light and /or under cage heat strips, and hot rocks. Don't use a small hot rock for an animal that is proportionately larger; burns often result if the animal is forced to rest on this type of heat source. A heat source should warm 1/3 to 1 /2 of the cage with a basking floor temperature of 88-92F. Use a thermometer! The unheated area should never drop below 75F. It may be necessary when using aquariums to cover part of the lid with plastic to maintain ideal temperatures. It is essential to allow the animal an area that provides an optimal basking temperature and a cooler area so that the snake can thermoregulate. Caution should be used when using lamps. If the heat is extreme it may dry out the animal, create health problems, kill or burn the animal. It is better to heat with an under cage heater and a lamp. Red lights may be used for heating during the night since this type of light does not disrupt the animals photo period. Avoid large wattage bulbs(100watt+) when possible. The heat provided is often too focused and may burn! Lighting: 12 hours on, 12 hours off, incandescent or fluorescent. Never leave visible lights on continuos, this causes stress. Furnishing: A water dish large enough to allow the animal to soak located near the heat source. Always provide clean water, disinfect bowl weekly. A hide box or shelter in the heated end of the cage provides security. A hide box may also be provided in the cooler area; always locate at least one in the heated end so the animal does not have to choose between security (from a hide box) and a warm area. A climbing limb that has been disinfected, avoid untreated branches and rocks since they may harbor ecto parasites. Substrates: Newspaper, paper towels, paper bags, or artificial grass are safe and inexpensive. Aspen bedding also may be used but it is advisable to feed on a different surface, since it could lodge in the snake's mouth. Gravel, sand, mulch and shaving may cause health problems such as intestinal blockage, skin lesions and "mouth rot." Cedar is deadly to reptiles! Cleaning: A solution of water, detergent and 5% household bleach is safe and disinfects, rinse surfaces thoroughly with clean water after cleaning. FEEDING Small, frequent meals are recommended until an animal is established and no longer a hatchling /juvenile. A baby ball should begin feeding on small jumper mice (15-21 days old) or rat crawlers. A snake may be induced to feed by placing it in a locking plastic shoe box style container(with air holes) with crumpled newspaper and leaving it for an hour, then introduce a food item. At 1.5' the snake is large enough for adult mice or small rats. At 2' it is capable of consuming weaned rats. Frequent feedings of 1-2 times weekly will result in quick growth and a healthy animal. Adults often take meals as large as 2/3 grown rats. Offer food items at least once every 10-21 days. Ball pythons may refuse to feed during the winter months and resume feeding months later. Many animals may be conditioned to accept pre-killed or thawed rodents(warmed) at feed time. This technique is safer, than feeding live rodents since this prevents the snake from being bitten by the rodent. Shedding is dependent on the animals growth rate and condition and may occur every month or several times a year. Ball pythons often refuse feeding attempts while shedding. Avoid handling after a sizable meal; this is stressful and may cause regurgitation. Never leave a rodent in the snake's cage for lengthy periods; a rodent can cause serious damage to your pet! Provide food & water for any rodent left in the snake's cage longer than 30 minutes. Never handle rodents and then handle a snake; you may be mistaken as food. Develop proper feeding habits. Maintain accurate feeding and health records. Reluctant Feeders : May be more apt to eat at night or with lights off, and may prefer to ambush prey from a hide box. Try a variety of rodents and sizes. Is the animal sick? Reduce handling to a minimum. If an animal refuses all feeding attempts, consult a veterinarian or an experienced keeper to force feed the animal(may require 3-6 feedings).This often stimulates an animals metabolism and a feeding response. HANDLING Always support the snake's body; avoid fast movements. Do not treat the snake as a toy. Avoid techniques which restricts a snake's movement. Avoid public situations which draw attention to the animal since this is stressful to the animal and possibly your audience. A nervous snake may occasionally bite; if biting occurs and is a problem, wear gloves. The handler must convince the snake that it is safe, trust must be learned. Snakes bite for two reasons: they have mistaken you as food or they are in fear of their safety. Snakes do not bite because they are mean. PROBLEMS 1) Respiratory infections appear as excess fluid in the mouth and nostrils, with gaping of the mouth. These infections result from inappropriate conditions such as cool temperatures, dry air, dehydration, stress, and parasites. To treat, increase temperature to 90F and reduce all possible stress to the animal. If condition persist, antibiotic therapy will be necessary through a veterinarian. 2) Mouth rot appears as cankers or lesions in the mouth. This syndrome results from the conditions of (1) & rubbing on rough surfaces, rodent bites and materials lodged in mouth. To treat, increase temp. to 90F, clean infected area(debride) with a solution of hydrogen peroxide(dilute 50:50), remove loose material(necrotic tissue) and swab with betadine 2X daily. If condition persist, medical attention is needed. 3) Dry sheds are due to dehydration, improper temperatures, illness and stress. Allow the animal to hide in a moist location when shedding, such as a water dish or container with a damp towel or spagnum moss. 4) Thermal burns and "Belly Rot" are caused by exposing the animal to a high heat source or unsanitary conditions. Follow procedure for (2), treat all damaged tissue. Correct the improper conditions. 5) Mites are small blood sucking ecto parasites, which are irritating to snakes. They appear as small black poppy seeds on the animal or in its dish. Consult your pet shop or fellow herper for treatment (Bio strip, ivermectin etc.). 6) Internal parasites can be a problem especially with imported animals. Symptoms such as failure to thrive, regurgitation, failure to feed, sickness and depression are all possible signs of a parasite infestation. It may be a wise move to bring a fresh fecal sample to a veterinarian, and if necessary treat for parasites. • beainsc recommends buying a book with the title, author, or subject: "The Ball Python Manual"

Back to FAQS

Back to beainsc's FAQS